Monday, 10 January 2011

Scotland Winter Adventures

After heading up North expecting a week of bad weather we were very pleased to find the weather forecast was wrong!!! For the first part of the week headed for the Cairngorms.

 Caff leading the 2nd pitch of Pot of Gold V 6 ***.

 3 hours later we had a home for a night. A perfect ice pitched roof!

The second half of the week we headed over to Glen Coe. For more great climbing and fantastic weather!

Chris Guest leading 1st pitch Scabbard Chimney V 6 ***.

 Chris Guest at the end of a top week in Scotland!

Saturday, 1 January 2011

Boxing Day Ice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With a long walk of 5 minutes on Boxing Day morning I found myself stood at the bottom of a ice pillar 18m high. This was to be another new route to be done in the Chew Valley. It was a fine lead by Rob T on some brittle ice. The ice didn't feel nice on the second! The second ascent was then bagged by Ian Hegg. Top effort to say we were all dragging a stone of turkey up with us and some had hangovers. Description below.

Location: Ladcastle Quarry

Turtle Terror IV 5

Climb the vertical pillar direct to its top 18m.
FA Rob Tortoishell & Chris Guest

 Ian making a swift 2nd ascent of Turtle Terror
 Rob very happy on receiving his prize for the first ascent
 Chris Guest seconding Rob T.

New Winter Route Dovestones Quarry

After a visit to the quarry a couple of days prior to this ascent I found the quarry to be in top nick, with turf like concrete and a good covering of snow. Whilst climbing Initiation corner I spotted a new line! I came back a few days later and put up the new 3*  route with my friend Rob T. Description below. 

Tortoise and the Hare VI 6

1st Pitch 6 130ft - Climb up Initiation corner for 50ft to grassy ledge. Traverse right(5m) to gain the scooped groove of Whipper In. Follow this leftwards moving out round its left edge to a pedestal. Continue up turf and cracks to a large flake. Traverse right and belay in the cave.
2nd Pitch 6 30ft - Exit the cave rightwards and hang tough!
3rd Pitch 5 40ft - Climb the wall just left of the chimney of Browns route to reach the top. 

Here are a few photos of my friend Rob T seconding, top effort!